ON HEADING BACK TO THE STATES: ESSEX AND PELEE ISAND

July, 2018

As we traveled west along the Lake Erie shoreline and past Toronto (no more big cities needed after Quebec and Montreal), we passed through cities named Cambridge, London, and Chatham-Kent.  For a brief moment we thought we had made a wrong turn and we were in jolly old England!  Once off of the highway, we zigzagged along the beautiful rural countryside to our last campsite in Canada.  This had been one of our longest drives, and by the time we had set up camp in Essex, Ontario we were definitely road weary.  After a delicious dinner, we began scouring the local tour guides to map out an adventure for the area, and Pelee Island caught our eye.   Pelee Island is the largest inhabited island in western Lake Erie, and officially is the southern most tip of Canada.  We knew we had to go.

The next day we found ourselves taking a brief hike at a park in the area…just a day to chill and stretch our legs from the long drive the day before.

Pelee Island can only be reached by a ferry that leaves the Canadian mainland from the port at Leamington, Ontario.  From Stateside, the ferry leaves from Sandusky, Ohio (bring your passport).  From Lemington the trip takes about an hour and a half, and in addition to passengers, cars and trucks can ferry over to this unusual little island.

We were interested in hiking the Island’s nature preserves with hopes of seeing  endangered flora and fauna such as the smallmouth salamander, eastern fox snake, eastern spiny softshell turtle, and the acadian flycatcher.  The Island is also home to reptile and snail species that are not found anywhere else in the world.  And, the Island is on 2 distinct migratory bird flight paths as well.  Certainly should have plenty to see.

We thought to take a hop-on/hop-off trolley around the Island, but found out that the trolley operates only on weekends.  Renting bicycles was a perfect option, and the Comfortech Bicycle Rental and Retail Store was more than happy to accommodate, providing us with Electra Townies – bikes with big comfy seats and thick wheels.  As an aside these had to be the most comfortable bikes we have ever ridden.  With our trusty map in hand and keeping in mind we had to be back by 3:30 for the afternoon ferry, we were off to explore the two nature preserves recommended.  These happened to be on opposite ends of the west side of the Island, but Pelee Island is very flat and easy to navigate.

As we headed south to Fish Point Nature Preserve we passed a beautiful winery on the way, stopped in for a few minutes, and planned on returning as time would permit.

Much of the southern portion of the island is a dense forest sitting on swamp land.  When we reached Fish Point we parked our bikes and walked through a dark, marshy overgrown forest on a very narrow sandy trail.  Signs warned visitors to be careful not to step on snails, an important species of this preserve, and to watch for non-venomous snakes.  The Preserve was a bit overgrown and in need of attention, but it didn’t detract from our enjoyment of our hike and the things we were able to observe.  While we weren’t lucky enough to spot a salamander or snake or to see the ever-elusive frogs we could hear, we did make it to the beach and could look out onto Lake Erie and realize how remote Pelee Island is, and how dependent its residents are on the ferry service for supplies and a life-line to the mainland.

We got back on our bikes and headed north in search of the Island’s original Lighthouse, built in 1833 and renovated; it had been billed as perfect for bird watching.  We also heard there was a lovely bakery and cafe along the way where we could stop for lunch.  What a fabulous feeling it is to be on a bike, free to experience a new place on wheels rather than walking.  People were swimming in Lake Erie, and there was little traffic on the road.  We discovered a stone sculpture on the shore side of the road referred to as Stoneman – “A Stone Testament to Island Perseverance.”

As we rounded a corner, we came upon an unusual sight: a shoe tree. Apparently the tree was diseased and was scheduled to be torn down so someone decided to turn the tree into a work of art by tossing old shoes over it.  If you look closely you can even find a pair of ice hockey skates!

After a delicious stop at the bakery and cafe we headed to the Lighthouse, only to find that the tides had damaged the area surrounding the lighthouse so severely that the walkways and paths were dangerous to hike; it was off limits.  Time was not in our favor so we headed back to return the bikes and catch the ferry back to the mainland.  Unfortunately we also didn’t have time to return to the winery.

We only had time to explore the west half of the island so we didn’t experience the eastern side of Pelee Island, an area some visitors refer to as “Canada’s Key West.”  We were impressed that the 235 year-round residents are committed to the sustainability of the Island’s economy, environment and cultural traditions.  We wish we would have planned better and been able to spend more time on Pelee Island, but we are glad to have seen this special place and to have met some of the business owners who call this place home.  We encourage others to take the time to visit this unique little Island.

Barbara and Brian