THE LAND OF MILK AND HONEY?

June, 2023

Israel stretches 263 miles from north to south, and its width ranges from 71 miles at its widest point to 6.2 miles at its narrowest. The geography of Israel is very diverse, with desert conditions in the south, and snow-capped mountains in the north.

So imagine the newly freed Hebrews leaving Egypt with a promise of a land of milk and honey. Imagine that after their escape from Pharaoh and with God’s help in crossing the Red Sea and with 40 years wandering about in the Sinai they finally climb to the top of Mount Nebo, on the border of modern day Jordan and Israel. Imagine that on the top of Mount Nebo Moses says to the no longer just Hebrews but soon to be Israelites: “Go on…I brought you here, but I can’t go on with you.” And as he points he says: “There’s your land of milk and honey!” And the soon to be Israelites see…the Dead Sea, desert and scorpions to the southeast, and to the east the Holy City Jerusalem and its surrounding greenery, pine and palm forest, date palm and olive tree groves.

We left Jerusalem on our way to the Negev desert to visit Kibbutz Ein Gedi, and En Gedi Gardens, to spend a night in a Bedouin camp, pay our respects to the heroes of Masada, float in the Dead Sea and give honor to David Ben-Gurion and his wife, Paula.

Kibbutz Ein Gedi is a 3,500-acre botanical garden located on the edge of the Judean Desert and on the west coast of the Dead Sea. The kibbutz has supported itself since its founding in 1953 with the business of growing date palms, farming, harvesting and selling dates. The kibbutz brings in water from a spring about 1 1/2 miles away and in the hillside. This magnificent botanical garden is possible only because of the spring’s abundant water and is now home to over 900 plant species from around the world. Kibbutz Ein Gedi is the world’s only populated botanical garden, home to 588 inhabitants.

Daniela and Tehuda Cohen have been members of Kibbutz Ein Gedi for over 50 years. Daniela is a native Californian who visited Kibbutz Ein Gedi as a young adult, fell in love and married. Tehuda is the manager of the date farm, and Daniela gives a most excellent tour of the Kibbutz.

Every year hundreds of sinkholes open along the banks of the Dead Sea, some as deep as a two-story building.

En Gedi is Israel’s largest oasis and is located in the southern region of Israel – a region of the Country that receives less than 2 inches of rain per year. However, four spring-fed streams flow year-round generating approximately three million cubic meters of water annually feeding En Gedi’s springs, waterfalls (!) and flowing brooks at the foot of its cliffs. It is home to the Nubian ibex and rock hyrax – the ibex is a species of wild mountain goat.

Biblically, Ein Gedi was a favorite hiding place for David and his army during their war with King Saul. The high elevation of caves in the surrounding area afforded a strategic advantage point above the desert below as well as an “invisible” location from which an advancing army could be easily seen. Of course, water was plentiful – water in the desert is as essential as air to breathe.

During the day the Negev has the possibility of 2 temperatures – hot or hotter! There is some “shade” in the vegetation surrounding the waterfalls, and walking into the pools at the base of the waterfalls or standing directly under the amazingly cold water is a way to cool off temporarily – BUT, otherwise there is little shade along the waterfall trail It was a moderate hike to view 3 of En Gedi’s waterfalls. The climate and terrain was prohibitive to viewing the remaining 4 waterfalls.

The Dead Sea is a salt lake bordered by Jordan to the east and the West Bank, and Israel is to the west. It was once connected to the Sea of Galilee, about 100 miles to the north, by the Jordan River. Today, only the Sea of Galilee is still “fed” by the Jordan River. The Dead Sea is approximately 1,400 feet below sea level, making it the lowest place on earth.  It is the world’s deepest hypersaline lake and is so salty that nothing can live in it – hence its name. The salt and minerals found within makes the water very dense, eventually taking one’s feet out from under her/him and allowing people to float easily on the surface. It is mentioned in the Bible as the place where Lot’s wife turned into a pillar of salt. The Dead Sea is facing environmental challenges due to human activities (mining) and climate change. The water level is dropping at an alarming rate, threatening its existence and ecosystem.

We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to experience floating in the Dead Sea. We’re not sure you can call where we entered the Dead Sea a beach. Yes, there is salinized sand, yes, there are sunbathers, and yes, there are high-powered public showers when done bathing to wash the remaining minerals and salt from your body or to flush your eyes should the waters splash them – the burn is pretty intense. Bathers cover themselves in mud from the bottom of the Dead Sea – we guessed this was a way to open pores and detox the body. We changed in the bathhouse and followed a boardwalk into the water – the boards felt incredibly slick/slippery. We didn’t experience that feeling of our feet going out from under us, because in ankle deep water we simply sat down and let the floating begin! Of course, in the course of paddling around we ended up accidentally splashing water into our eyes. Time to get out and flush, but Barbara couldn’t get her feet under her in order to stand. A helping hand from Brian got the job done, and after a short while under the flushing waters we were back on our backs floating around – a lot more carefully. Barbara enjoyed the novelty of floating in the Dead Sea, but Brian found a rare (for him) peaceful place in which he could have floated forever. Hmmm, wonder what that was about?

What an introduction to the Negev Desert – the Southern Region of Israel. It was a great day – a long drive along the western coast of the Dead Sea, the chance to talk with someone who has lived on a Kibbutz for most of her life and seeing the Kibbutz’s amazing botanical garden, being in yet another place of Israeli importance – sharing a place and walking in the shadow of King David (how awesome!), and, of course, floating in the Dead Sea. Next stop? Bedouins and paying honor to the heroes of Masada and the first Prime Minister of Israel. Stick Around…

Barbara and Brian

“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.“ – Henry David Thoreau