OLD CITY JERUSALEM

June, 2023

“If I forget thee Oh Jerusalem, let my right hand wither, let my tongue stick to my palate if I do not remember you, if I do not set Jerusalem above my greatest joy” …Psalm 137

We’re sure that Christians and Muslims as well as Jews hold the Holy City, Old City Jerusalem, in the highest most sacred regard. However…

Jerusalem has been the Central City of Judaism since the year 1000 B.C.E., when King David conquered a small, remote Canaanite town and made it the capital of his kingdom. Following the death of King David, and with the building of the First Temple by King Solomon, the City took on even more importance in Judaism as it became the destination for the three pilgrimages – a yatra – commanded by God. For generations Jews have traveled to the Holy City in order to celebrate the festivals of Passover (celebrating the Israelites escape from slavery in Egypt and a prayer for freedom for all peoples), Shavuot (celebrating God’s gift of giving the Torah to the Jewish people) and Sukkot (celebrating the gathering of the harvest and commemorating the miraculous protection God provided for the children of Israel when they left Egypt). 

Jerusalem is a major focus of biblical literature and the likely venue where much of this literature was written and preserved. The kings of Judah lived and died there; prophets were based in Jerusalem, interpreting the Torah and establishing the great moral and ethical standards of Judaism.  The destruction of the First Temple and the rebuilding of the Second Temple (60 years later) are stories of lamentation and redemption of Jerusalem. The Second Temple period added 500 more years of memories, as recorded in many of Apocryphal books, such as the books of the Maccabees, relating the events leading to and following the revolt against the Greeks in the second century B.C.E. (commemorated during the Hanukkah festival).

The city of Jerusalem grew and underwent a major facelift by Herod, the Roman appointed Jewish king who conquered Jerusalem with a Roman army in the year 37 B.C.E. Rabbinic literature records hundreds of events, stories, and descriptions of life in Jerusalem.

After the destruction of the Second Temple, and as Rabbinic Judaism was ushered in as the primary mode of Jewish learning and spiritual centrism, the memory of the City was taught to embody the hopes and aspirations of the Jewish people. Jerusalem became an ideal that represented redemption, perfection, and wholeness that Jews would study about, pray for, and try to spiritually experience throughout the diaspora.

A series of rituals, prayers, and special days developed in Jewish antiquity were designed to keep the memory of Jerusalem alive from generation to generation. Jerusalem is a central theme in Jewish liturgy and religious poetry. For example, one of the 19 blessings of the Amidah (silent prayer central to all Jewish prayer services) reads: “Return to Your City Jerusalem in mercy and establish Yourself there as you promised…Blessed are you Lord, builder of Jerusalem.” Synagogues traditionally face toward Jerusalem. And, at the end of the Passover seder and at the conclusion of Yom Kippur, Jews exclaim “L’shanah haba’ah b’Yerushalayim— “Next Year in Jerusalem.” 

The origin of many contemporary Jewish practices, customs, and beliefs can be traced to Jerusalem, providing a constant “meta-message” of the primacy of Jerusalem for anyone who practices Judaism, even in the slightest. For example, the order of synagogue service is modeled after the daily Temple service in Jerusalem. The weekly reading of the Torah was established in Jerusalem after the return from the first exile (587 BCE). The seder meal on Passover is a consistent replication of the seders held by generations of Jewish pilgrims in Jerusalem. 

We had decided that our time in the Holy Land would be first and foremost a Jewish experience – connecting with those that had come before us. Old City Jerusalem would certainly provide for us an essential part of the experience we were seeking…

We met our tour guide, Roni, outside the City gates. He is an Austrian Jew, brought to Israel as a young boy by his mother, who is a citizen of Israel, and had a career in the IDF retiring some 5 years ago at which time he started his tour company. He is a published author with a second book due out in the near future. We found Roni to be forthcoming, extremely knowledgeable, opinionated, and engaging.

We entered the Old City through the Jaffa Gate, one of the 8 gates built into the walls of the City. A gate was built for entry and exit; however, it was important for defense of the City as well. The gate is a pinch point – only so many soldiers could enter due to the width of the opening. Past the arch of the outer door is a foyer that would hold only so many, and then a 90-degree turn was necessary to pass through a second set of doors that, like the exterior doors, can be closed and secured. The City was accessed once through the second set of doors. Not insurmountable, but certainly a strategic defensive strongpoint.

We had wanted to walk the Ramparts, but were told that the view from the Tower of David was equally as wonderful, and, since the walls of the City have been reconfigured several times over the generations, the Tower of David was more significant to the history of Judaism in the Holy City. The Tower of David was Jerusalem’s citadel – a fortress sitting on high ground protecting the City. For thousands of years the City’s rulers resided there, and the archaeological excavations in and around the Tower of David revealed much of the City’s evolution across 3,000 years. Today it stands as one of Israel’s prominent cultural institutions and Jerusalem’s official museum.

The Citadel – The Tower of David…

The views from the top of the Tower of David were breathtaking and seeing the breadth and extent of the Old City brought tears to Barbara’s eyes – setting her eyes on the physical presence of the Old City so strongly connected her to Israel and being a Jew.

Notice the clock tower similar to that in Jaffa built during the Ottoman Period, the mosques with their minaret towers, and the churches and synagogues with their rounded domes. The Mount of Olives is in the far ground.

Leaving the Tower of David we found ourselves walking the streets of the Old City on our way to The Church of the Holy Sepulcher, the most sacred place in Christianity. Roni made it a point to tell us that each religion found enjoyment in annoying the other. Take a look at the sign in the courtyard of the Mosque of Omar…

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is believed to be the site where Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected – his tomb found empty.

We are now headed from the Christian Quarter into the Jewish Quarter, and on our way, with a stop for lunch, to the City of David. The City of David is an active archeological dig. Along with finding priceless artifacts of early Jewish settlement of the Holy City, evidence of Roman architecture has been uncovered. There are many, many tunnels under the Old City. The tunnel we were about to walk through was built during the time of King Herod; the time of the Second Temple, of which the Wailing Wall and its foundation are all that remains.

We stood in awe seeing the Wailing Wall for the first time…

Walking over a bridge to the City of David we stopped as Roni told us about the site and the marvels that have been uncovered. Overhearing our discussion 2 Australian tourists, Michele and Emma, asked if they might join us – how could we say no to making new delightful friends. By the way – there’s something familiar in Brian and Roni’s gene pool!

The City of David – the original core settlement of Jerusalem built during the bronze and iron ages, approximately 1,000 B.C.E.

While in the tunnel we passed stones cut to provide the foundation for the Second Temple built under the direction of King Herod. These so-called Herodian stones are also found under the Damascus Gate and at the Temple Mount. The Second Temple was built in 516 B.C.E. and stood until 70 C.E. when destroyed by the Romans – these foundation stones and the Wailing Wall are all that remain. It was a wonder to think that these stones are part of the Wailing Wall!

It is commonly believed that this site provides a direct channel to God, and in order to ask for God’s blessing written prayers are placed in the cracks in the wall. These written prayers are considered sacred, are collected during High Holy Days, and not disposed of, but ritually buried.

Orthodox Judaism commands that the genders be separated for ritual prayer outside of the home. It is believed that women are a distraction to the piety of men’s prayer (although we certainly don’t agree with this practice). We were told there was an entrance for intergender couples to be able to pray together at the Wailing Wall, but it certainly wasn’t readily in view.

The Temple Mount is considered to be the most sacred site in the Jewish faith – the Holy of Holies. However entry is forbidden.

The Temple Mount lies just beyond the Wailing Wall making the Wall the holiest place where Jews are permitted to pray. Brian wore the tallit purchased as a gift for him in Jerusalem by Cliff and Fran Grobstein and covered his head during prayer. Both of us continued to wear kippah, which we had donned once entering the Holy City.

There are not absolutely prescribed prayers to be recited at the Wailing Wall; prayers said are very personal. For us saying the Shehechiyanu, Shema, Chatzi Kaddish, Aleinu and Mourners Kaddish was a beginning to our prayers. We asked God’s blessing for healing (Mi Sheberach), God’s blessing for our children, children’s children and children’s children’s child, friends, those we hold dear, in honor of those that have come before us, for the 6 million slaughtered, and for the heroes of Israel. For Brian the depth of his prayers, and thanking God for Barbara and all the blessings he has had during his life left him emotionally exhausted.

One does not turn their back to the Wailing Wall. So while facing the wall and backing away, we each individually had to find a place sit and center ourselves before rejoining the group.

Continuing our walk of the streets of the Old City…

Opened in 1863 the Austrian Pilgrim Hospice is the oldest Christian guesthouse in the Old City. Its cool lobby and shaded courtyard made for a nice mid-afternoon respite during the warm afternoon. We were told that the views of the City from the roof rivaled those of the Tower of David. Brian just had to check it out.

Our last 2 stops in the Old City found us visiting a tahini factory, and pottery shop. We bid goodbye to Roni before entering the tahini factory. His expertise and leadership during our 8-hour tour of Old City Jerusalem was invaluable to feeling that a first visit was all it could be.

Tahini is ground sesame paste – well it’s a little bit thinner than what is traditionally thought of as a paste. It is a primary ingredient along with ground chickpeas in hummus, along with roasted eggplant in baba ghanoush, and is pressed into loaves, flavored and sweetened, to make the confectionery halva.

Ironic story – We bought tahini to bring back as a treat/gift for family. Brian made the mistake of not wanting the jar of tahini in the luggage (might spill), and Barbara placed it in her carry-on. We made it through Israeli customs and airport security, and onto the plane. We had to change planes in Frankfurt, Germany and once again go through security. The Germans were not as lenient as the Israelis and confiscated this, to them unknown, peanut butter like paste (try this with a german accent: tahini-what is this tahini?)

Kea had bought Barbara a couple of beautiful tiles created by the artisans of Jerusalem Pottery – a stop was a must before leaving The Old City.

In 1919 a group of ceramic artists was invited by the British to renovate the ceramic tiles of the Dome of the Rock (Islamic shrine on the Temple Mount). In 1922 two of those ceramic artists opened Jerusalem Pottery and began producing Armenian hand painted pottery and tiles. In 1965 the Jordanian government commissioned Jerusalem Pottery to make street name tiles for Old City Jerusalem in Aramaic and English, and in 1967 the Israelis commissioned them to make tiles of street names in Hebrew, which were added to the top.

To this date the exquisite designs and incredible fine detailed work is respected throughout the world. And yeah, we made a few purchases.

Leaving The Old City of Jerusalem…

As we were leaving Old City Jerusalem we heard fairly modern music playing LOUD. A “spin class” had been organized just outside the City Gates.

We were headed into the Negev tomorrow and stayed overnight at The Jerusalem Hotel. The hotel is located in East Jerusalem and just outside the Damascus Gate. Of note is the fact that East Jerusalem was annexed from Jordan by Israel following 1967’s Six-Day War, and while the West Bank and The Golan control of the area may be Israeli, there is always an undercurrent of Palestinian unrest.

The Jerusalem Hotel is family run and situated in an old Arab mansion originally built over 120 years ago on the remains of a 4th century Byzantine Church by a feudal lord. The Jerusalem Hotel has been carefully renovated to accentuate its 19th century Arab character and refurbished with Arabesque furniture. The thick stone walls, cut from unique creamy Jerusalem stone have been exposed and pointed with a traditional Arabic plaster.

After our long day in Old City Jerusalem we had a great meal at the Notre Dame Guest House, which was a short walk from our hotel. Views of the Old City at night were pretty spectacular.

Our day in Old City Jerusalem connected us to being a Jew more than could ever have been imagined. Having a full day (!) with our tour guide gave us a focused start at understanding the allure of Jerusalem for the Jewish peoples. We appreciated walking the streets and alleys and imagining what it was like in centuries past, and we couldn’t help but consider the influence of conquering armies and the contribution of their culture to the City. Interacting with modern Israelis continues to be a joy of this trip, and visiting places in Old City Jerusalem so central to Judaism renewed our passion for our religion and left us awestruck.

Barbara and Brian

“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.“ – Henry David Thoreau