NORTH RIM OF THE GRAND CANYON

May, 2019

Remember the sign post for Kanab and its “The Greatest Earth On Show” logo? Remember the 4 compass points – Bryce to the North, Zion to the West, Lake Powell (Page, Arizona!) to the east, and The Grand Canyon to the south? Depending on wintry weather or flash flooding that can occur any time of year, Bryce, Zion, and Lake Powell are accessible 24/7/365.  Parks and US Recreational Areas never close – really.  Even though the elevation of Bryce Canyon ranges between 8,000-9,000 feet above sea level, and Bryce has an average annual snowfall of 10-14 feet and there are 200+ nights below freezing, the Park remains open for winter recreation – snowshoes optional but probably desperately needed.  We’re sure that public safety is foremost in the Park Service’s mind, but our guess is that if you can get there you can enjoy the Park.

However, the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is not open 24/7/365.  There is a single 2-lane road into or out of the Park, and it is 45 miles to the entry station from the intersection of US Route 89 and Arizona Route 67.  Route 67 is a paved roadway, but it is officially closed October 15 and reopens May 15…approximately.  Early blizzard-like conditions as well as substantial snow fall well into the spring and frequent heavy rains make the road into the Park impassible.  There had been frequent Spring rains, which due to the Park’s elevation, translated into mid-May snow storms all along Route 67.  But sunny days well into the 40s, and conscientious plowing by both Utah road crews and the Park Service kept the roadways as dry as possible.  We would be able to visit the Park!

You pass through majestic pine forests, beautiful meadows and glistening ponds all along the 45 miles of Route 67.  There are signs signifying the stupidly of people – having to remind them (certainly not us!) that driving motor vehicles off of the roadway and onto the meadows is not permitted, and that approaching wildlife is an unwise act (or would it support Darwinism?).  There are also signs for bison and deer crossing…how cool would it have been to see a herd of bison grazing or deer romping across the snow? No luck seeing bison, but we did see herds of deer grazing when leaving later in the day. And while driving into the Park we did spot a coyote out on its early morning hunt for breakfast.

Quick Fact – Annually the South Rim of The Grand Canyon has over 5 million visitors per year, the North Rim 1 million, and the West Rim just 200,000 visitors.

Thank goodness for having already purchased our National Parks geezer pass several years ago…we sailed passed the entry station and, although the main parking lot was already busy early in the morning, we easily found a spot. Sunny weather with temperatures in the mid to upper 40s was predicted…the bright sun and our excitement at visiting The Grand Canyon kept us warm all day!

Our habit is to spend some time at the Visitors Center chatting with Rangers and volunteers about recommended hikes and seeing the exhibits.  We appreciate some reconnaissance before setting off on our visit, and there have been times that other visitors offered some pretty good advice about what to do or avoid.  It’s a treat for us, and we love seeing and hearing children (and sometimes adults, too!) take their junior ranger pledge after a day in the Park.

We enjoyed the scenic overlooks and places for photo opportunities, but truly appreciate each Park so much more by walking several miles, and experiencing the topography and slopes, panoramas and vistas from a multitude of angles…the sights, sounds and smells. Doesn’t have to be backcountry hiking or even a hike off the beaten path, but who knows what you’ll find if you slow down, see where the day takes you, and really take a good look no matter where you are?

There are 3 primary observation points at The North Rim:  Bright Angel Point, Point Imperial and Cape Royal.  The road to Cape Royal had not yet been opened for the season, but we weren’t going to miss the other 2 observation points…and then wondered what other adventures could we muster?

We could access the Bright Angel Trail by walking through The Grand Canyon Lodge or simply following the trail from the Visitors Center.  But once we heard that there was a Ranger talk on the geology of The Canyon somewhere in the Lodge, we knew which direction was for us.  Welcoming and made of warm dark wood, the Lodge overlooks Transept Gorge, Bright Angel Canyon and Roaring Springs Canyon – all named parts of The Grand Canyon. There are sitting areas on the patio right outside the back door, allowing visitors some R&R time as well as affording terrific views into the Canyon.  It is 21 miles from here to the South Rim, and on most days your view goes well beyond that landmark – a never ending horizon!  We found about 25 people listening to the Ranger’s excellent 20 minute talk, and walked away remembering that The Canyon was formed by DUDE:  deposition, uplift, drainage and erosion.

Bright Angel Trail is the most popular hike in the Park – a 1-mile round trip steep trail out to an observation overlook. The trail is paved and wide enough…but there are no guard rails and the drop-off is severe. Visitors were taking a lot of pictures – selfies included – and there were some risk takers standing way too close to the edge.  During our hike out to the point we were thrilled to see a Western Tanager!

Snow on the ground was not a deterrent to our hiking the 1.6-mile Bridle Path Trail through the beautiful and fragrant pine forest from the Lodge to the backcountry office followed by a 2-mile return hike with panorama vistas of The Canyon along the transept trail.  Feeling accomplished and tired we figured that was enough hiking for the day.

It’s a short 10-mile drive from the Visitors Center parking lot to Point Imperial, cutting through the forest and moving up an elevation of almost 1000 feet. We weren’t sure, but it did look as if lightning had started a fire or there had been a prescribed burn to quite a lot of the forest prior to the Point Imperial/Cape Royal turn-off – quite a lot of new growth along the road. At 8803 feet above sea level, Point Imperial is the highest point in the Park, and in our opinion, offers the best views of The North Rim.

The North Rim of The Grand Canyon is not as commercialized as the more popular  South Rim.  Sure, there are mule rides into the Canyon, but the Lodge is modest and there are only a handful of cabins for overnight accommodation; the Visitors Center is crowded at 10 people, and there’s no theater showing a film about the Park. The Park Service operates it all – there are no outside vendors. We came to believe that The North Rim is more for exploring and finding your own path.  Sure, we could find our “own path” at any one of the Parks, but we’re sure The South Rim’s popularity creates a different culture (taking the train from Williams to the Canyon, staying overnight at the bottom of the Canyon, etc.). When we are able to visit The South Rim we’re sure other comparisons will be inevitable.

Timing was right for us to be able to visit The North Rim of The Grand Canyon, and we were fortunate to have been amongst the early visitors in 2019.  We left The North Rim tired, with wet feet from our hikes in the snow and slush, smiles, and life-long fond memories.

Barbara and Brian