COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST

April – May, 2020

The western most entry into the Coconino National Forest is a scant 2-3 miles east along Interstate 40 from Williams, Arizona, and is nestled between several other national forests.  While the forest climbs to alpine tundra heights north of Flagstaff, and it is possibly best-known for the red rock formations of Sedona. In this section of the forest, Ponderosa Pines dominate the landscape, ATV’s are challenged to see how much red dust can be kicked up while navigating seemingly endless trails best suited for that mode of transportation, trailheads for hikers lead to seasonal waterfalls, naturally occurring water storage tanks are nestled amongst the rocks and a “rim walk” looking down on Sycamore Canyon. Look carefully and see osprey and their nests, as well as an occasional bald eagle both soaring on the thermals or fishing the deep fresh water lakes. Recreational opportunities abound if one doesn’t mind a little (?) red dust to get there.  We found out we cleaned up just fine.

Just in case here are directions to this bit of wilderness – take exit 167 off of Interstate 40, head south about 4 miles and cross over the railroad tracks, turn back east for 6-8 miles, and depending on where you’re heading pick up the forest road that takes you to your destination.

Described as an easy 2.5 mile hike around the lake, Dogtown Lake became our first adventure in the forest.  Guess we weren’t the only ones to see the chance on a beautiful day to enjoy the lake; as we approached, the roadway and parking areas were packed with cars.

The Coconino National Forest presents endless recreational possibilities, but the real character of this region of the forest is defined by Sycamore Canyon. At 21 miles long, averaging a mile across, and totaling 56,000 acres Sycamore Canyon is the second largest canyon in Arizona – only the Grand Canyon is larger.

Finding the Rim Trail trailhead and after a quick study of a conveniently posted map we took off planning to hike from the “observation point” to the waterfall. From the map it looked like the hike should have only been a couple of miles; however, and after a good hour we realized that either we didn’t know how to read the map’s legend or the map was wrong. Nice easy hike – no waterfall though.

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Not to be denied we drove down a different forest road, and on our second trip into the Coconino National Forest found the Sycamore Falls trailhead; from there it was only a short hike to the falls. Unfortunately the waterfall is fed by winter run-off which is long gone. But dang it, we found where the waterfall would be if it could be!

Know what a forest tank is? Nah – neither did we, but the Pomeroy Tanks were noted as a featured area of the Sycamore Canyon’s Rim Trail. Forest tanks are permanent deep pools of clear water. Situated beneath black lava cliffs and other jagged formations the Pomeroy Tanks provide water 365 for the wildlife that inhabit the Canyon.

Without a doubt this was our favorite hike in Sycamore Canyon.

Sycamore Point is literally at the end of the road, and if we were recommending one stop this would be it. Walk a short 50 yards or so from the parking area and the views are spectacular!

We were used to cruising along the forest roads of Coconino National Forest, eating whatever red dust we would kick up on our way to this or that hike and Barbara said: “Look! There’s a huge nest!” So out of the jeep we ambled and tried to creep quietly up on what turned out to be an osprey nest. Stealth being one of our better qualities, the osprey heard us well before we came within 100 yards of the nest. S/he noisily flew away hoping to distract us from any thought we had of disrupting incubation.

We were told that another Osprey nest could be found closer to the road on the way to Whitehorse Lake. We just happened to be going that way on one of our journeys into the Forest and…well…

Neighbors at Railside RV Ranch told us that JD Dam was a terrific place for a hike and a picnic lunch. We found the Dam parking lot and started walking along a spit of land out into the lake we thought had been formed by the dam. But in talking with a young man who has been fishing here since he was little, we found out that the dam is a retaining wall for the lake’s spring-fed waters. It keeps the water in! A beautiful location but very limited for hiking. It was fun to sit lakeside, eat lunch, and have a little bit of nature come to visit us!

We had wanted to return to Dogtown Lake, but red dust must have clogged our brains and blinded our eyes enough that we missed the turn, but soon stumbled upon a sign for Scholz Lake. About a mile or so from the main forest road, and we found the trailhead parking lot – we were delighted to have another new place to explore! We took a good long hike about halfway around the lake before we ran into fencing noting private property and had to turn back, thoroughly enjoying the time we had at, we’re guessing, a hidden gem.

Of all the wonderful hikes and terrific landscapes, flora and fauna we had the chance to see on our visits into the forest, Whitehorse Lake was our favorite location. Our hike on yet another beautiful day was made to the cacophony of a bullfrog symphony, and, on occasion, the sound of what Helena calls “peepers” – named after the noise made by small frogs startled by our intrusion as they leaped from their idyllic sun warmed world along the lake’s bank into the water.

The Coconino National Forest is a pretty cool place, and well worth exploring. This has been only one small part of the whole – hiking around Flagstaff and Sedona is on the agenda. Stay Tuned!

Barbara and Brian