April – May, 2019

We were well ready to leave Las Vegas.  Daytime temperatures began rising into the mid- to upper 80s/lower 90s without much cool-off overnight – clearly a sign that the need for places to winter was over.  It was time to get back on track with our dream of America’s National Parks being the destination and guide for our aimless wanderings.

Our next stop on this journey started so long ago was Kanab.  Kanab is right on the Utah/Arizona border, and it is the central location for visiting Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks; Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon, and Horseshoe Bend National Monument; the North Rim of The Grand Canyon, and maybe we’d be lucky enough to win the lottery to obtain a permit to hike Coyote Buttes and experience The Wave.

Getting from Las Vegas to Kanab seemed like it should be an easy trip…make our way on the Interstate through Las Vegas onto Interstate 15 North for about 120 miles then wiggle around a bit near St. George, Utah, and then take Utah Highway 9 East for about 60 miles to Utah Highway 89 South for 17 miles and into Kanab.  There was a major problem with our travel plans.

The severe winter and pounding rainstorms of early Spring forced the closing of Utah Highway 9 east of the Zion-Mt Carmel tunnel.  Repairs were expected to be completed in a couple of days, but the road remained closed on our travel day.  This turned out to be a blessing in disguise since Utah Highway 9 is an east/west road that cuts directly through Zion National Park (yup – pay a National Park fee of $35 to enter the park – even if just driving through).  Coming from the West, and once in the park, drive 5 miles on a pretty level roadway on the bottom of the canyon and then 6 miles or so on a switchback-laden narrow road up a steep grade with only occasional retaining walls to go through the Zion-Mt. Carmel 1.1- mile tunnel with a height of 13’1″ in the center/11’4″ on the sides.  It took 3 years to build the tunnel beginning in 1927, and it requires an additional $15 RV fee and mandatory Park Service escort through the tunnel.  Traffic is stopped in the opposite direction while you drive straight down the middle of the tunnel – that is, if you’ll fit and don’t have to somehow turn around before entering the tunnel in the first place.  From the East, the process is reversed; escort through the tunnel before the narrow road down to reach the bottom of the canyon.

A day or so after setting up camp in Kanab we went through the tunnel with our Jeep. Brian was very glad to have taken the we-didn’t-have-a-choice, alternative route to Kanab…no climbing up from a canyon floor, no tunnel.   The specs on Aimee say she’s 12’6″ tall, but does that include the TV antenna or satellite dish or ac/heat pumps on the roof?  And along the alternate route we got to see wonderful vistas which excited us even more to explore this part of the country.

We knew our friends from Tucson, Doug and Ruth, were already in Kanab, and they were scheduled to head north on their journey to Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks the day after we arrived.  We made plans to have dinner.  It was terrific to catch up with Doug and Ruth’s adventures, and to hear about their favorite activities while in this neighborhood.

While checking in at the campsite office, the door opened, and Susie (of Susie and Bill from the Mesa cartel) walked in and gave Brian a big hug.  What an unexpected surprise!  Bill and Susie had just checked into the very same campground for a week.  They had come up from Mesa via the South Rim of The Grand Canyon and Page, Arizona (Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend National Monument), and, like us, they were excited to visit Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks.  We had solid plans for the next day, but after that we became the 4 Amigos for the duration of their stay in Kanab.

I guess the cliché is true…when it rains it pours.  Friends from Pennsylvania, Roma and Jim, had planned on vacationing in Utah – flying into Salt Lake City, heading to Moab to hike around Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, then heading over and down to Kanab.  4 Amigos – Part 2, including a 9pm-midnight dark sky telescope exploration of space with a lecture.  AND Graham and Leigh had planned on a long weekend at Zion National Park which just happened to coincide with our time in Kanab, and, yes, we did hike about in the Park (and have an early dinner) with them as well.

So did we end up getting bored with Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks, seeing the beauty of southwest Utah, or discovering it’s hidden gems…hell, no.  It is truly the greatest earth on show!

Barbara and Brian

 

 

 

 

March – April, 2019

Anyone else remember when you could go to Vegas and get a coupon book that would entitle the bearer to a days worth of free or cheap stuff?  We’re talking a free slot machine pull or hand or 3 of blackjack at a casino, a 99-cent shrimp cocktail, a free Vegas-review show for a 2-drink minimum, steak and eggs for $3.99 or a bogo buffet for $5.99?  Believe it or not there are still free or inexpensive attractions to do and see on Freemont Street or The Strip – or at least close by.  If you want to find those attractions, and we’ve mentioned this before, check out our favorite websites…you know the ones that are not part of the places normal people look.

#1 cool and unusual thing to do in Vegas is the Neon Museum and Boneyard.  There are still all kinds of wonderful neon signs in and around Freemont Street that are best seen after dark, and yup, the cowboy is still there.

BUT, to learn about the early rough and tumble days a visit to the Boneyard is a must.  Neon is Las Vegas’s most iconic art form, and many of the neon signs from Las Vegas’ past find their final resting place at this graveyard.  Talk about authentic Vegas – even the museum’s visitors center is housed inside the former lobby of the La Concha Motel.  The lobby was moved cinder block by cinder block and reconstructed on site for the museum.  By the way, the Boneyard appeared briefly in the movie “Mars Attacks.”

Of course we had to tour at night!

The Las Vegas Pinball Collectors Club built the Pinball Hall of Fame in a very unassuming warehouse well off the Strip, and features pinball machines and games from all eras including some very rare machines from the early 20th Century.   Since all of the machines are operational, we were sure to bring a couple of rolls of quarters with us.  In the darkened space the newer machines were just an overwhelming display of multiple balls, lights and noises.  We stuck with the older more familiar machines, and we had a great afternoon!

 

Doing some searching online Brian found a statue in Boulder City dedicated to the man who cleaned and supplied the outhouses during the building of the Hoover Dam.  A gotta see, right?

But then looking across the street we saw that there was a great statue of Peter Pan and Tinkerbell.

Had we discovered found art?  Hell yeah!  Boulder City should be very proud of its downtown…it’s a great place to take a walk and wander around. What a pleasant find.

We couldn’t let our time in Vegas pass without a visit to one of the many wedding chapels that were all in a row along a seedy section of Las Vegas Boulevard.  How interesting that these places of “forever bliss in the arms of another” would be across the street from vacant buildings, overnight shelter for Vegas’ homeless and, well, who knows what other activities.

We chose to visit the Little White Chapel, because of its sign advertising 24-hour drive-up service. Directly adjacent and across the parking lot from the Chapel were stores renting wedding attire, selling flowers and champagne – a one-stop shop for your wedding!  No one was in line at the drive-up wedding window, but there were 2-3 couples and their wedding parties waiting for their chance in the chapel.  We suspect that this is one busy place day after day after day.

We had such fun finding sights off of the beaten path.

…The shrine and plaque at The Flamingo Hotel and Casino commemorating the gangster Bugsy Siegel who convinced the east coast mob to put the city on the map…

…and the flamingos at The Flamingo…

…and a truly nice aquarium at the Silverton…

…and Cannabition, the Cannabis Museum…

…

…and The Erotic Heritage Museum…

Ever been to a Holi Festival of Colors?  Neither had we, but the festival was taking place in a park near our campground and we decided to check it out.  We paid our admission fee and bought 5 packets of brightly colored powder.  Turns out the powder is colored talcum – as we found out thankfully and easily removed.

The Holi Festival of Colors is a tradition founded in the culture and religion of India as a celebration of spring, and a feeling of oneness and connection to all people.  Non-stop music is performed, Bollywood dancing is at its best, and we were swept up with the crowds to dance along with the rhythms.  Food, clothing and crafts are for sale.  But the highlight of the festival is the expression of togetherness by the sharing of colors.  We were reluctant (shy? unknowing?) and didn’t know what to do at first, but were each given a big hug by a participant, and then had color tossed our direction by a couple of kids in attendance.   Others came up to us and wanted to color our faces.  We shared our colors and just flat out had a great time!  Not sure, but there just might be a unity of man message as the vision for the festival.  This is definitely one of those “a picture is worth a thousand words” experiences.

Several years ago Brian was in North Las Vegas on business with a colleague from the office (shout out to Bob McCormick).  We were hungry after our appointment and Brian found a BBQ joint in the neighborhood.  It was Barbara and Brian’s turn to enjoy.

John Mull’s Meats and Road Kill Grill is an unassuming butcher/meat market and BBQ joint.  Come on Tuesdays or Thursdays for burnt ends or any day of the week for large portions of everything smoked – sandwich or plate, your choice…ribs, pulled pork, brisket, chicken and sausage, damn good beans and other usual sides, and corn bread all served in styrofoam containers by a quite impressive 6’6″ 275 lbs neckless power lifter with 24 or so inch arms with chest and legs to match (nice guy by the way).  Get yourself some BBQ sauce if you need (isn’t smoke your sauce – really?), a tasty canned beverage, and take your container out the back door past the smokers operating with delicious intent then wander back to the front of the building and have a seat at a picnic table under the pole barn for your feast.  We promise you won’t go wrong!

That’s it for Vegas.  A great wedding, wonderful hikes and scenery, a buffet or 2, 1 bawdy show, and some other fun discoveries.  We found a group in Henderson to continue our playing pickleball, and worked out regularly at Planet Fitness.  The wind never seems to stop blowing, but it is a land of sunshine and the temperatures were in the 70s to low 80s most days.

We left the area excited to be on the way to our next destinations, all of which bring us back to our initial mission of visiting National Parks.

Barbara and Brian

March – April, 2019

So who comes to Las Vegas to find hiking and biking trails? Who comes to Las Vegas to go out of their way to travel off-road and see the desert in bloom? How about to find petroglyphs, lizards, abandoned train tunnels, the pupfish, and fossils?

Yeah, Yeah…We know.  The last blog started off with the same thought, and did we really mean the repeat?  Well, of course, and here’s the point.  Vegas is amazing, and a place in the world that working stiffs, people looking for an incredible vacation, those with disposable money to spend, and the rich and famous can all find whatever it is they want to find – and find it in excess.  We’ve all known somebody that has been to Disney often enough to earn Disney perks, or has earned privileged status with this or that cruise line for being at sea on the company’s vessels often.  For some, Vegas is their Disney or cruise line…it’s their special get away place.

We have chosen to make the road our home.  Each of us who lives on the road makes the decision as to the next destination, what we think we’ll do there and in general, how active or “retired” we’ll be.  Barbara and I could simply figure out our destinations and stick with the most popular places and activities there OR we could chose which of those popular places and activities we’d like to see, and mostly focus on finding and doing the cool stuff not everybody would go see or do.  We do try to blend in our personal preferences too:  things like baseball games, BBQ, staying highly active, and being outside whenever possible.  In Vegas there are fabulous outdoor activities within a short reach of the city, and a plethora of Atlas Obscura/Road Less Traveled/Roadside Attractions/The Crazy Tourist stuff (more on all of that in a separate blog) – you just have to take a step away from the seduction of the glitz and glamour.

The Valley of Fire State Park and the Hoover Damn/Lake Mead National Recreation Area are fabulous, no doubt.  But there’s quite a bit more for us to share.

The Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is about 15 miles west of Las Vegas, and it is managed by the Bureau of Land Management as part of its National Landscape Conservation System (National Landscape Conservation System?).  More than two million people visit each year, which would be a ranking of 16th place if this were a national park.  On weekends the line of vehicles wanting to enter the park can stretch back a few miles.  Thankfully there was an express line for those with a National Parks pass.  By the way, the senior National Parks pass is loving referred to as a geezer pass!

Coming in from the South our first view of the area was striped mountains hinting at the beauty we’d find in Red Rock itself.

There’s a 20-mile long stretch of gently slopping fairly straight roadway with beautiful views and vistas adjacent to the Canyon that leads past the entrance into the hills north and the valley south.  The roadway is very actively used by bicyclists and runners for recreation, races and rallies.

Once a wild burro living in Red Rock Canyon, Jackson, has become the Canyon’s mascot.

Compared to other Conservation Areas in which we have hiked, Red Rock is a well- organized, 13-mile one-way roadway that ambles up and down the hills that define the paved portion of the Canyon.  Along the way there are many prescribed parking areas that lead to the trailheads of wonderful hikes.

The highest point along the 13-mile loop affords the best view of a beautiful red rock outcropping and the western horizon.

We couldn’t resist taking the trail to view petroglyphs, as well as being sure to get lost while following what we thought was the proper trail.  After a mile or so we ran across some other hikers coming the other way who explained that we had found wilderness, and we were not on the path to view ancient symbols carved into rock.  We had to turn around and get lost a couple of more times, but finally our stubbornness paid off.

Our longest hike, the Calico Tanks Trail, took us deep into the Canyon.  The path was easy to follow because of its white sands.

Along the way we were fortunate to see our first blooming Yucca…

…and swore that we were being followed by this little guy!

We’d highly recommended a trip out to Red Rock if you happen to be in the area.

This was the satan of bike rides…bar none.  What started out described as an easy 8-mile paved and then moderate 5-mile “off-road-but-hard-pack-dirt-follow-the-signs” ride ended up being a very fun 10-mile ride and 10 miles of “where the hell are we and how do we get back ’cause the wind is in my face, I’m tired and this just sucks.”  We can get lost all by ourselves, but the path markers just stopped somewhere around mile 11 or 12.  Thank goodness for GPS or we may still be wandering around the streets between Las Vegas and Henderson trying to find our way home.

While riding we did find great views of the Vegas Strip, some of the countryside, and a couple of other pretty things as well.

We finally encountered a snake.  Brian noticed the back end of a coral and black banded, 5 foot-long snake slithering off of the bike path and into the shade.  We had to hurry to try and see more than a snake’s back end, and we found it attempting to hide out in the shadows and behind a few small rocks (see the head and tail?).  Brian approached for a closer picture, and was hissed at as the snake made haste away under the bike path.

The Desert National Wildlife Refuge is north of Las Vegas, and at 1.615 million acres is the largest protected wildlife refuge in the lower 48 states.  It’s more than twice the size of Rhode Island, and it is part of the Mojave Desert.  Although there are miles and miles and miles of unimproved roads (ox cart paths may be a better term) and an occasional campground (tents only) throughout the Refuge, it is essentially wilderness.  It’s not a place to wander about or for the rookie in the wilderness; there are no facilities, no water and no cell service.

So why would geezers like us bother? Well, after talking to the Ranger at the Visitor’s Center, we bounced along a dirt path (road?) for 5-6 miles through a Joshua Tree and Yucca Forest starting its spring bloom in pursuit of fossils!

At least we believe these are fossils. Woo-Hoo?

Not sure that the pictures do justice to the beauty of springtime in the desert, but we stopped every quarter mile or so to admire the scenery.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is “a biodiversity hot spot and a haven for rare plants and animals, and an incredible story of survival for an ancient species of fish.”  It also calls itself the last remaining oasis in the Mojave Desert.  Oasis?  Are we in the Sahara or lost for 40 days in the Sinai?

The Devil’s Hole Pupfish is an ancient species of fish only found in the geothermal aquifer-fed Devil’s Hole in Ash Meadows. Only about 1 inch in length the pupfish may be the world’s rarest fish with an estimated population of less than 200.

The Amargosa Niterwort and Ash Meadows Sunray are 2 endangered plant species found nowhere else in the world.  

There’s a small lake in the Refuge fed by the geothermal aquifer, and it is an amazing color of blue

There’s fun to be found all around the excitement of Las Vegas.  For us, we found satisfaction and wonder in all of the hikes and the bike ride we enjoyed.  Get off the Strip and Freemont Street even if just for a little while – you’ve got all night for the rest of that stuff after all.  Come hike Vegas…we’ll never tell.  What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas!

Barbara and Brian

 

 

 

March – April, 2019

So who comes to Las Vegas to minimally experience the glitter and glam…preferring to find hiking and biking trails?  Who comes to find petroglyphs, lizards (shout out to Elyssa!), abandoned train tunnels, and a man-made lake; to walk in the Valley of Fire, and to perform a wedding ceremony?

Years ago we had flown into Las Vegas to begin a driving vacation that included soaking our weary bones in the soothing waters of Tecopa Hot Springs, being amazed by the beauty of Death Valley; curious about Rhyolite Ghost Town and who decided to put an Outdoor Statue Gallery just northeast of Death Valley (worth looking ’em up), and awed while hiking Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon Forests.  We took a few days back in Vegas to “chill” after driving so many miles, and we discovered Nevada’s Valley of Fire State Park some 50 or so miles north-northwest of the City.  On the day we drove through the Park our rental car registered an outdoor temperature of 113 degrees Fahrenheit.  Hardly agreeable to getting out of the car and hiking.

The temperature during March and April in Las Vegas can be warm, maybe even hot for a day or 2, but nothing like the mecury rising a month or so later when the oven is cranked up, and it doesn’t cool down until sometime in early to mid-October (yup – 6 months where the average daily temperature is in the mid-90s).

We were in Las Vegas to attend the wedding of our niece, Nichole Ayala, to Adrian Adame.  They had honored Brian by asking him to officiate their ceremony.  Barbara’s brother and 2 sisters attended the wedding, and a good time was had by all – an absolutely fabulous wedding and kick-ass reception.

Sisters Joy and The Meg stayed for a couple of days afterwards, and while we had already spent some time in the Valley of Fire State Park and roaming around Lake Mead National Recreation Area, we were happy to visit a second time – we just saw so much more the second time around.

The Valley of Fire State Park is Nevada’s first state park, dedicated in 1935.  It is world-renowned for its 40,000 acres of bright red Aztec sandstone outcrops that were formed from great shifting sand dunes more than 150 million years ago.  These brilliant sandstone formations can appear to be on fire when reflecting the sun’s rays.  Keeping our eyes wide open we realized that the bright red sandstone is not the only color that stands out in the Park.  We found that the greens, purples, yellows and shades of white along with red and white striated formations were visual treats easily seen as we drove through the park and along the paths we took during our hikes.

It was a bit overcast the first day in the park, but when we returned with The Meg and Joy there was brilliant sunshine.

 

We read that the amount of iron in the soil gives the sandstone its red coloring.  So, greens, purples, yellows and shades of white along with red and white striated formations?  The minerals in the soil color the sandstone; the rocks change color.  Amazing!  Check it out…

 

The Valley of Fire State Park contains an incredible concentration of ancient petroglyphs that are easily visible on the rock face as you hike the trail.

We stumbled across some cactus in spring bloom, an unusual flower, and some critters willing to pose for the camera!  The beauty of the cactus flowers is astounding.

 

 

Lake Mead National Recreation Area is a 110-mile reservoir that was formed by “impounding” the Colorado River as the Hoover Dam was built.  It is a year-round recreational area spread across 1.5 million acres of mountains, canyons, valleys and two vast lakes.  Lake Mead is America’s most diverse national recreational area, offering boating, hiking, bicycling, camping, fishing and just wonderful sights and views.  Hoover Dam is just around the corner and up the hill.

 

A short ride from the west entry is Redstone, which offers some fabulous formations competing in beauty with the Valley of Fire.

During the construction of the Hoover Dam, 5 tunnels were cut out of the rock to create a bed for the railroad needed to provide a constant flow of supplies over the last mile to the construction site.  The railroad bed and the road passing through its 5 tunnels became a popular family=friendly bike and hike path between the Lake Mead Visitors Center and the Hoover Dam parking garage.  Unfortunately tunnel 3 has fallen into disrepair and the road is blocked.  We had a much shorter bike ride than planned, but it was fun to travel part way along this historic path.

Hoover Dam is a concrete arch-gravity dam in the Black Canyon of the Colorado River on the border between Nevada and Arizona.  An arch-gravity dam is one that sweeps upstream in a narrowing curve that directs most of the water against the canyon rock walls, providing the force to compress the dam…and maintain the dam’s integrity.  It was constructed between 1931 and 1936 during the Great Depression, and it was dedicated on September 30, 1935.  Originally named Boulder Dam in 1933, it was officially renamed Hoover Dam, for President Herbert Hoover, by a joint resolution of Congress in 1947.

These were just “some” of our favorite activities while hanging out in Vegas – stay tuned for Part II!

Barbara and Brian

 

 

 

 

March – April, 2019

We’d heard that the lively Arts District in Las Vegas was not to be missed, and that the District was home to artists’ studios and galleries, shops featuring retro clothing, antiques and stuff, as well as bars, coffee shops and restaurants geared for the hipster in you.  We love exploring that kind of neighborhood, and with a general idea of how to find the Arts District off we went to get our culture on.

How would we know that the propaganda about the Arts District left off one very important part of the scene.  As we were figuring out a place to park we noticed street art and murals all along the alleys and the side streets.  We had truly loved driving around Austin to find street art, and we were delighted during a bike tour of Tucson to find so many murals on the sides of buildings.  In some regard murals are probably found in every large or small city you can visit, and we are just beginning to discover gonzo artists everywhere.  iIt was a treat to find street art in Las Vegas!

While walking around the Arts District and taking pictures we stumbled across the front door of a sign maker worthy of a picture because of its unusual message.  As we were about to take a snapshot a voice behind us asked if we wanted to see something even more interesting.  Turned out to be the owner, aka The Vinyl Dude.  He had created a vinyl sign for his entire lobby made to look like a football field complete with hash marks, yard markers, and goal posts.  He was very proud to show us around his shop and particularly his new sign making machine.  A customer came in and it was time for us to mosey on, but The Vinyl Dude wanted to be sure we knew he would create a sign for just about any surface including a rocket ship!

Later on during our Arts District walk we passed the back door entrance to one of the older boxing gyms in Las Vegas.  One of the trainers was doing a little clean-up, and he invited us in to see the place.  How could we resist?  We were shown around, got to watch a fighter work with his trainer, and we spent a fair amount of time talking to one of the trainers who had been ranked the #6 middleweight in the late 80s-early 90s.  He told us some amazing stories about his boxing career.  Unfortunately he never did get a chance to fight for the title.  The scar tissue above his left eye and disfigured hands and fingers drew Brian’s attention as we talked fighters, how the fight game has changed, and his hope that American fighters will once again take their place as the best in the world.  We were invited to come back to see some matches in a couple of days, but unfortunately we had already made other plans.

We returned to the Arts District another time to visit some of the galleries.  The Arts Factory is home to 10 or so galleries and artists’ studios.

We had called ahead and made arrangements to visit Kat Tratz’s Wonderland Galley.  A big shout out to Kat who took time out of her day to spend a good hour talking with us about her work, and for being so wonderfully warm and welcoming.  She let us know that there are hidden objects in each of her works. Check out the 2 works below and see what you can find!

 

We tried, we really did try to visit the fine art gallery on the campus of UNLV, but the gallery was in transition.  The curator suggested that we might enjoy 2 other galleries on campus; one in the alumni building, the other in the student union.  Neither were impressive, but we did have a chance to see the statue of the UNLV Rebel and Claes Oldenburg and Coosje Van Bruggen’s “Flashlight.”

Not be outdone by the Arts District, the downtown area is also home to a fair number of larger, building-sized murals.

And lastly the Atlas Obscura’s contribution to Las Vegas “art not to be missed” included these 3 statues.

You never know what you find until you take time to look!  We obviously saw some amazing art, had some good conversations with The Vinyl Dude, the Contender at the boxing gym and with Kat Tratz.  We thoroughly enjoyed another side of Las Vegas.

Barbara and Brian

 

March – April, 2019

It was difficult leaving the new friends we had made at the RV Resort in Mesa.  In truth though, in the week or so after we had departed, the crew would be breaking up and heading back to their Summer homes in Calgary, Minnesota, Idaho, Nebraska, and Michigan – we would have separated for at least a half year anyhow.  An impromptu party the night before we left, offers of “if you’re ever in the neighborhood stay with us”, and the pledge to see each other next Winter made the parting easier.  The texts that have been flying around between all of us in the month since we last played pickleball and drank a beer have reinforced our desire to stay in touch until we see each other again.

We’ve come to realize that Brian is much more comfortable staying on US Highways rather than State Highways or city roads when guiding Amiee through the rigors of the next leg of our journey started so long ago.  It’s just simpler.  The roads are better, there is construction but typically easy to maneuver through, and the exit numbers stay consistent – they’re mile indicators.

But as would happen there is no US Highway or combination of US Highways connecting the slightly more than 300 miles between Mesa and Las Vegas.  The route we mapped had us leaving the Mesa/Phoenix metroplex traffic on US Highway 10 to then pick up Arizona Route 93, which becomes Nevada Route 93/Interstate 11, which through Clark County and Las Vegas is Nevada Route 93/95/Interstate 515.  Arizona Route 93/Nevada Route 93/Interstate 11 is a truly beautiful ride through the rolling hills, mountains and flat plains of the Mohave Desert.

We enjoyed so much the Joshua Trees lining the road and as far as the eye could see.  Barbara is the eternal optimist to Brian’s cynical belief that the sky will indeed fall, so you’ll understand that when the GPS had no clue as to where we were, Brian figured we were doomed.  Barbara’s calm optimism and patience with Brian’s nonsense won out (anyone surprised?), and as we crossed into Nevada and approached the Hoover Dam the flat and rolling hills of the desert were replaced with spectacular views of volcanically formed, wonderfully colored landscapes.

The exit numbers changed once in Clark County confusing our GPS  yet a second time, and without an apology, it took us onto a dead-end street behind our campground with a cul-de-sac that was not large enough to accommodate our turning radius.  We had to drop our Jeep, back-up, and then proceed the last half mile.  By the time we settled into our site in the campground we were very glad we had found our way.

So let’s get Las Vegas out of our system right away so we can move on to better things in subsequent blogs.  The city was founded by the Mob and built on gambling and entertainment.  And it all works!  The average visitor never has to leave their hotel (or leave a section of town should they decide to venture out) to eat, drink, gamble, socialize, workout, play, be entertained, nap or just veg-out for a while and people watch… a brilliant and simple plan for a vacation.

By the way, and from our perception, every hotel or resort is referred to as a hotel and casino.  There are free- standing casinos, but we’re not sure there are many free-standing hotels to be found.

Downtown the action is all along Freemont Street, or The Freemont Street Experience as it is now referred.  Freemont Street has been closed off to vehicles in order to create a pedestrian mall that is approximately 1 mile or so in length.  All along the mall are some of the original, but certainly older casinos and hotels that all have multiple entrances into their casinos from the pedestrian mall.

Imagine also touristy museums and gift shops, street performers and panhandlers, music stages and performing artists; people believing you can hold up signs saying anything you’d like, marijuana dispensaries, restaurants like the Heart Attack Grill and Denny’s; and bars fronting the street, serving up oversized cans of beer and huge daiquiri’s and margaritas in souvenir plastic glasses.

Overhead is a system of ziplines referred to as slotzilla, because the riders appear to be jettisoned from a giant electronic slot machine about 5 stories above street level.  Above that is a screen on which moving and rotating images are projected – a pretty amazing after-dark light show.

All manner of humans manage to co-exist along the mall.  You’ll see bachelor and bachelorette parties, newly married couples still in their gowns and tuxes; homeless and those dressed to the nines; souls with as little on as they can manage and not get arrested, families with little kids (would you take your youngsters down there after dark?); grifters and clergy, security, police and scammers, couples walking hand-in-hand, friends together on vacation, and of course your average everyday retired older adults like us.  Daytime is considerably calmer and more sedate than after dark.  After dark the mall is a frenetic free-for-all.

The Strip is what most people think about when they think Las Vegas.  All the lights, glitz and glamor, the expensive hotels and casinos featuring top-name entertainment; celebrity chef restaurants, one of many Cirque Du Soleil performances, boxing and MMA stages, and the odd-ball and often risqué shows.

Let’s not forget the nightly outdoor entertainment:  the water show at the Bellagio, the volcano erupting at The Mirage, the pirate ship sinking at Treasure Island.  A visitor can watch the circus performances at Circus Circus.  The price?  A short walk along the Strip!  The High Roller at The Linq is also a Strip icon, but the cost of a ride is pricey.

Weekends are outrageously crowded; weekdays fairly tolerable.  Everyone is walking or driving or Ubering somewhere – maybe on the way to a show or for dinner, maybe looking for cheap eats or to get in line at a one of the Tix4Tonight booths along the Strip to score discounted tickets for a show, or just out for a walk to observe what everyone else is up to.  Compared to the Freemont Street Experience many more people are dressed as if they were going out for the evening; minimally business casual, but more than likely formal eveningwear.  Scantily dressed “showgirls” ask if you’d like a souvenir picture and are just part of the locals hustling to make a buck off the tourists.  The Strip is wonderfully and colorfully lit – truly a wonder to behold.  However, with your attention drawn in so many directions in order to see it all, it can be overwhelming.  The entrances to hotel and casinos are back from the roadway, and the energy of the street if entices a potential hotel guest or gambler to make a commitment to enter that particular venue.  Every hotel and casino has its own shopping mall, restaurants, bars, and attractions.  The Flamingo has a wildlife preserve with (you guessed it) flamingos; Cesar’s has an aquarium, an art gallery and a National Geographic photograph display; the Bellagio has a first class fine art gallery; New York New York has its own roller coaster, and the Aria has the City Center Art Gallery.   There are gondola rides at The Venetian, you can ride to the top of the Eiffel Tower at the Paris Hotel for a great view of the city, bungee jump from the top of the Stratosphere Hotel Tower, or spend a day at the shark reef aquarium at The Mandalay Bay.  The same mix of tourists populate The Strip as those at the Freemont Street Experience.  But beware:  the days of free parking and $4.99 buffets are long gone.

For the record Brian didn’t play 1 hand of blackjack, make a bet on the roulette wheel,  throw the dice once at a crap table or pull the arm of a one-armed bandit.  We did indulge twice at the endless number of possible buffets, one that served traditional Passover foods.  We did walk the Strip a couple of times and we did stroll along with the throng of humanity at the Freemont Street Experience.  We did not have our picture taken with “showgirls” nor did we have an oversized can of beer or a huge daiquiri or margarita served in souvenir plastic glasses.

We did take in 1 very enjoyable show at which Brian and Barbara were called up to the stage separately.  Brian to help a scantily dressed young lady jump rope with her chewing gum, and Barbara to pull a swallowed sword from the throat of the performer.  With the locals so crazy about ice hockey we enjoyed seeing the T-Mobile Golden Knights Arena, and we thoroughly enjoyed a night at the new Las Vegas Ballpark watching the Aviators blow a 6 run lead only to win the game in the bottom of the 9th!

But there’s so much more to enjoy in the area than what is traditionally thought of as Las Vegas, and that’s where we spent the vast majority of our time.  Whether on the “best of what to do when in Las Vegas” lists, part of the lists of odd and unusual sites, or sought out because of our personal interest, we found terrific activities and adventures to keep us very, very busy.  Stay Tuned!

Barbara and Brian

 

 

 

 

March, 2019

Sedona was an easy drive, about 2 hours north of our campsite in Mesa.  Brian had heard that noon is perhaps the best time to take photographs in enclosed pocket canyons, but that the outdoor colors of nature are more dramatic at sunup and sundown, and that in Sedona the red sandstone mountains and hills take on a mystic orange glow at those 2 times of day.  We started out well before sunrise hoping to catch the colors at their peak.

Three weeks prior to our visit, the area had had a 3-foot snowfall, and some of the trails we wanted to hike were closed.  The run-off raised the water level of streams and rivers to a level making it unsafe for fording.  We found alternative trails and with the majesty of the mountains as a back drop completed a couple of terrific hikes.

All-in-all a very fine day indeed.  The day was a little cloudy for the promised orange glow, but the sights were spectacular nonetheless.  Enjoy the photographs.

Barbara and Brian

 

P.S. – Forgot to add to other posts that we did get to a Padres-Angels Spring training game in Peoria, AZ.  Brian had hoped to see Mike Trout and Albert Pujols play, but unfortunately no luck.  We went without tickets, and as we approached the box office, an older guy (yup – older than me) asked if we had tickets.  Why no, Brian replied.  He told us that he and his son were Spring training season ticket holders and couldn’t attend today’s game.  We scored tickets at face…nice!  As we said thanks he added that his son had totaled his truck last night but that he was fine.  Things can be replaced; people can’t Brian responded.  He nodded agreement and with a slight smile, we parted ways.

 

 

February – March, 2019

We have an obsession with Atlas Obscura.  It’s our go-to website well ahead of googling “the best of (insert city here),” checking out Roadside Attractions, Off The Beaten Path, The Crazy Tourist and The Road Less Traveled.  Don’t get us wrong – the what-to-do list is a compendium of reviewing all of those websites as well as looking into what’s going on in the city/region while we’re there.  We just must be busy…we love it, and we get to know so much more than sitting in Aimee writing blogs!

Atlas Obscura’s by-line is “(insert number here) cool and unusual things to do in (insert city here).”  There’s even a Gastro Obscura for eaters…not always about adventuresome foods, this website covers stuff like the International Pizza Expo, the best hot dogs across the US, jezebel sauce, and the best food trucks in (insert city here).

Some of the 17 cool and unusual things to do in Phoenix/Mesa are time sensitive.  For example the Native American and First Nation Hoop Dance Contest takes place every February, and the flight of the Mexican Free Tailed Bats occurs only in summer.  Some require reservations (places not all that exciting), and the weather was flat out too nice to spend too much time in museums.  Honestly, some of those things to do were not of interest – let the other travelers do that exploring.

Some, like the Firefly Infinity Mirror Room (Phoenix Art Museum)a nd Governor Hunt’s Pyramid Tomb were included in other blogs.  The Sonoran Dog was the only food listed in Gastro Obscura (how weird is that?), and Tucson wins in the dog race hands down!

But there were 4 cool and unusual places we put on our list.  Those are the Mystery Castle, the Domes of Casa Grande, the turquoise “golden” arches of Sedona, and MacApline’s Diner and Soda Fountain.

Directions told us that if we’d turn south from The Casa Grande Ruins and go 6 miles and then turn west for 1 mile, we’d find The Domes of Casa Grande.  As we were travelling down a dusty dirt road we wondered if we’d find these modern day ruins.  Then there they were!  To us the eerie abandoned buildings, some covered with graffiti, looked like they could be flying saucer-like UFO houses or retro-futuristic ruins inspired by post-war science fiction movies.

What we came to find out is that The Domes were built in the 1970s to be used for computer manufacturing, were never completed, never used, and totally abandoned.  Urban legend has it that witchcraft and devil worship take place within The Domes of Casa Grande, and signs warn explorers to stay away, especially from the abandoned tunnels to the east of the site.  Myth?  In any case we were glad to see The Domes during daylight hours.

OK.  Let’s get this out of the way.  Yes, the McDonald’s in Sedona is the only McDonald’s whose arches are not golden.  They are turquoise!  In the whole wild world – yup – definitely – ‘fer sure – get over it.

Whew – glad that’s done.

Open since 1938, MacAlpine’s Diner and Soda Fountain has kept its original fountain, malt machine, and all the gum that customers have left beneath its counter. Waitresses dressed in 1950s’ outfits and a big smile snap their gum and offer meals to diners in wooden booths, vintage ice cream tables and chairs, or at swivel seats at the counter.

Guests can select old tunes from a jukebox, and it’s a real treat to look around at the vintage décor and hodgepodge of antiques seemingly in every nook and cranny.  It’s as if Al’s Diner from Happy Days and The American Pickers Showroom had a baby!

Brian tells the story of living in Oceanside, NY from ages 7-13, and stopping at Pop’s Candy Store in the mornings on his way to junior high for a buttered hard roll and chocolate phosphate for breakfast.  After school, he stopped for candy or to pick up the latest comic book; he would stop with his dad after a haircut for a soda fountain treat.  MacApline’s is just like Pop’s, serving up classics including malts, phosphates, egg creams, ice cream sodas, root beer floats and ice cream sundaes from the fountain;  short-order food like burgers, meat loaf, grilled cheese, egg or chicken salad, BLT, club sandwiches, etc. out of the kitchen in the back.  No fries back in those days.

Barbara went for her stand-by favorite – an egg salad sandwich, potato salad and pickle.  We had planned on splitting a malt, but with an array of 99 syrup flavors (standards from dill pickle to bubblegum to red velvet), we ended up having a heck of a time choosing one.  Our butter pecan malt came with the requisite whipped cream and a cherry on top, and the extra malt still nestled in its metal mixer cup – thick, rich and delicious!

 

 

The Mystery Castle was built in the 1930s by Boyce Luther Gulley for his daughter Mary Lou. After learning he had tuberculosis, Gulley moved without his family from Seattle to the Phoenix area, and he began arduous task of building the house from found or inexpensive materials.  In his heart was permanently etched the vision of those precious moments when he and his little girl built sand castles on the beach in Seattle.  How she would cry when the tide washed them away. “Please, Daddy! Build me a big and strong castle someday that I can live in.  Maybe you ought to build it in the desert where there is no water.”  He built Mary Lou a native stone castle – eighteen rooms, thirteen fireplaces, parapets and many charming nooks and crannies, then furnished it with southwestern antiques.  Boyce Gully died in 1945 before he could send for his family.  Mary Lou was an adult when she moved into her “castle” with her mother.  Mary Lou shared her “home” by giving guided tours of her beloved Mystery Castle until her death in 2010.

Two things stood out to us as we toured the castle.  Boyce Gulley was not trained as an architect nor in the construction trades; he came to Arizona because of his tuberculous, a disease that affects your breathing and, at that time, shortens your life. Yet he searched and scrounged and was able to take the materials and supplies back to this property to build the castle.  He also mined the property and found a decent supply of gold, copper, and other precious metals.  Secondly, Mary Lou had a sense of whimsy about her, and the castle is filled with cat memorabilia and quaint sayings.

Barbara and Brian

 

February – March, 2019

We had toured the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park in Southwestern Colorado several years ago, and we had found it amazing that the Anasazi peoples were able to construct their pueblo homes in rock cutouts on the edge of such deep ravines, were able to carry water and food up the steep cliffs, and were able to thrive in spite of all of the demands that such a life gave them.  The Anasazi eventually deserted Mesa Verde.  There is speculation but no evidence as to the reason they moved on.

Unexpectedly, we had the chance to add to our knowledge of the history of the Anasazi peoples during our visit to the Tonto National Monument.

Starting in Mesa, it’s a beautiful 95-mile drive through the Superstition Mountains to reach the Tonto National Monument.  What a glorious day:  bright sunshine, wispy clouds in the sky and the temperature in the low 70’s – not bad for being officially winter!

This area of the country lies on the northeastern edge of the Sonoran Desert.  A rare, year-round source of water, the Salt River runs through the area, and it was dammed in the 1930s to create Roosevelt Lake (reservoir).  Roosevelt Lake has  become a popular   camping, recreation and fishing spot.

The Anasazi, O’odham, Hopi, and Zuni peoples (ancestors of these tribes have been called the Hohokam) living together here came to be called the Salado culture.  Archeologists and anthropologists estimate that the Salado culture existed from the 13th century into the early 15th century.  As with the Anasazi of Mesa Verde, no one is sure why these ancestoral peoples moved from this location; why the Salado culture ceased to exist.

The Upper Cliff Dwelling is a moderate 1.5-mile hike through the Tonto Forest Basin and up a gradual slope.  The Dwelling is multi-story with more than 40 rooms built into a large shallow cave near the crest of the mountain.  This architectural marvel was built in 1300 CE, with construction continuing until its residents abandoned the area sometime in the early 15th century.

The Lower Cliff Dwelling can be reached by enjoying a strenuous half-mile uphill hike along a narrow paved path with numerous switchbacks. For safety’s sake only 3-4 rooms can be explored.

Estimated to be more than a mile from the cliff dwellings, the Salado peoples farmed in the Salt River Valley.  Their diet was supplemented by hunting and gathering native plants.  They were fine craftspeople, and they produced some of the Southwest’s earliest examples of  polychrome pottery.

For more than 650 years The Casa Grande has stood as a landmark in the Sonoran desert.

The Casa Grande Ruins National Monument pays tribute to the innovative farming community that was built by ancient Sonoran Desert Peoples (ancestors of the O’odham, Hopi, and Zuni).  A very knowledgeable NPS Ranger guided us on a fascinating tour of the ruins which included the Great House (Casa Grande), 5 other dwellings that were probably homes, a sports arena, and ruins of a wall that surrounded the compound.

Since the ancient Sonoran Desert People who built it left no written language behind, written historic accounts of The Casa Grande begin with the journal entries of Padre Eusebio Francisco Kino when he visited the ruins in 1694.  He was the one who named the ruins The Casa Grande.  Archeologists working the site have discovered evidence that the residents of the compound also developed a wide-scale irrigation system to support their farming, and they had extensive trade connections which researchers believe lasted over a thousand years.

Now here’s the curious part.  The closest source of water is more than 9 miles away from the compound.  Tending the corn, squash, bean, cotton and tobacco crops as well as keeping the village supplied with water had to be a labor-intensive, long-distance hands-on job.

Now here’s the tough part.  The area immediately surrounding the compound does not support hardwood forest, and The Casa Grande was built with hardwood timbers.  The closest hardwood forest is estimated to have been been 90 miles away.  Somehow those timbers were found and then moved from there to here.  Whew!

The effort to construct The Casa Grande had to be tremendous and points to the importance of the compound.  But for what purpose was it built?  Our NPS Ranger told us that the 3 holes in the exterior walls align with phases of the moon and the sun depending on the season, and perhaps these were used as a “clock” for planting and harvesting – or – maybe they were for viewing the crops in the field and to spot anyone approaching the compound?

So why was The Casa Grande built here and not closer to the water source?  Why were hardwood beams used?  What was The Casa Grande’s purpose and function?  There’s no cemetery or burial area, and no human bones have been discovered on-site.  Why did the people who lived here leave?  Where did the people who lived here go?  There’s no recorded history from those who lived here so long ago.  Any guesses?

Although there are so many unanswered questions, The Tonto National Monument Cliff Dwellings and The Casa Grande Ruins National Monument are examples of the successes of the human spirit during ancient times – fabulous!

Barbara and Brian

February – March, 2019

What do you do on a cool (60 degrees), blustery day in Mesa, Arizona? You look for something to do indoors, and  we chose the Phoenix Art Museum. It had been on our “to do” list for awhile; we were just waiting for a day not suited for pickleball.

The parking lot is huge, parking is free, and when we arrived, the lot was nearly full. Even though there is so much to see and do at this elegant museum and the attractive lobby caught our attention, we found some sculpture on the way in that just called out to be appreciated.

The first thing we saw was a huge, bright red Tyrannosaurus enclosed in a bright red cage. Kyra, Helena and Penny would have loved this larger-than-life sculpture.

Two other large sculptures, a waterfall and a reflecting pool kept our attention and we were intrigued to look at each piece a little closer.

We entered the museum through enormous all-glass doors designed to take advantage of the 300+ days of sunshine that Phoenix has. The museum has an industrial feel to it. It is very modern with lots of concrete, incredibly high ceilings and highly polished granite floors. We were impressed by the enormity of the entry hall. After we paid our fee, we headed to the first gallery, only to be stopped in our tracks by thousands of beautifully crafted black butterflies and moths that filled the walls and ceilings of the hallway.

Renowned Mexican artist, Carlos Amorales’ “Black Cloud” consists of 25,000 black paper moths and butterflies of 30 different species that seemed to be hovering right over our heads. The artist took his inspiration from the annual migration of butterflies from Canada to Mexico. Because they are all black, there is almost a sense of foreboding as we walked beneath this amazing display.

There are no real doorways to most of the galleries; they just kind of flow one into the next. Here are the highlights of what we enjoyed.

Scandinavia artist and native of Iceland, Ragnar Kjartansson’s “Scandinavian Pain and Other Myths” is a video installation and a “multi-sensory work”. In a darkened gallery, ten large flat screens simultaneously produced a musical experience that kept us spellbound for 20 minutes. Each screen featured an individual wearing headphones playing an instrument (accordion, guitar, cello, drums, piano); one screen showed a front porch with people wearing headphones and singing to the music generated by the musicians. The lead musician, presumably the artist, was bathing in a large white bathtub while he strummed his guitar and sang. The rest of the fully-clothed participants followed his musical lead. We presumed that the musicians were all living in Iceland but perhaps in different locations? It was an incredibly creative and engaging work. One of the great things about seeing this installation was the opportunity to observe how other guests reacted. The gallery never felt crowded; we could all move from screen to screen or just sit and close our eyes and surrender to the experience.

March 9th was International Women’s Day, and the Museum honored a number of women artists by featuring their work and creating an opportunity for dialogue between staff and guests of the museum. Beginning at 10:00 and every 45 minutes, guests were directed to a selected work. Portable chairs were placed around the featured piece, and after a brief introduction to the artist’s work, knowledgeable staff members offered interpretations and took comments or questions from the audience.

One of the best things about this museum are the number of museum staff in gray t-shirts and casual dress who stroll the galleries and initiate conversations. While their primary role is to keep the art safe, we never felt like we were being watched. They were proud of “their” museum, and wanted to ensure that all of us to had an enjoyable experience. In addition to the adults in the Museum, there were several school groups. However, the noise level did not interfere with our enjoyment. The most notable noises came primarily from those installations that featured sound and not from loud talkers or excited children. It was a very different museum experience than we had experienced in the past at other museums where people often spoke in hushed voices as if they were in church. We never felt rushed, and we were impressed with the intentionality of the museum curator about how much art should be on display and where it should be featured in the Museum. All of the art seemed to have equal importance and deserved the full attention from guests. We thought the choices were skillfully and thoughtfully made. Sculptures, very Old Master works and some European works; contemporary photos, ultracontemporary fashion displays, political pieces, and the Museum’s permanent collection were given equal status, and it made our two-hour visit go by very quickly. We realized when we left that we had only seen about one-third of the Museum.

We had read about the work of Yayoi Kusama titled “You Who Are Getting Obliterated in the Dancing Swarm of Fireflies,” and this exhibit was the reason we wanted to visit.  When you enter the pitch black “infinity mirror room”, it takes a minute or so to get your bearings. You are about to become one with eternity. Barbara was frightened by the optical illusion that challenges those brave enough to enter this corridor of mirrors to move forward over what appears to be an abyss! The helpful staff told us to keep our left hand on the wall as we traversed this maize of mirrors and we’d be able to find our way through the exhibit.

It was truly remarkable! Multicolored LED lights are hung from black strings, and the lights go off and on as well as change color as you move forward; occasionally you are in total darkness. It is hard to distinguish where the reflections begin and end.

The lower level of the Katz wing featured the work of Julio Cesar Morales. Headlines taken from the press became works of art, and they caused us to chuckle as they revealed the creative attempts people have made to try to smuggle drugs into the U.S.

In another multi-media display Morales asks the visitor to consider the plight of immigrants who risk everything to come to this country, using the true story of a child hidden in a rolling carryon suitcase!

And finally there was a work of art that is difficult to describe. It is part sculpture, part reconstruction and an eye-catching piece to behold. According to the Museum staff, lightening struck a Southern church and burned it to the ground. An artist saw the remains and decided to resurrect the church in an unusual way. Pieces of the burnt remnants are strung on very long pieces of mylar and hung from the ceiling in equal distances to form a square. The largest of the burned pieces of wood form the center of the piece. It is almost as if the burnt pieces of the church are exploding towards the viewer or are perhaps ascending to heaven?  Whatever the viewer beholds, it is truly a remarkable work to see up close and from a distance.

We barely scratched the surface of the art on display at this understated, wonderfully organized, and mesmerizing museum.  A return trip is definitely in order next winter when we are back in Mesa.

Barbara and Brian